I had never been to a catwalk, so yesterday’s Sarli defilé at S.Spirito in Sassia was a première for me, thanks to my friend GB. We were not spared our share of crepages de chignons among ladies fighting for their place on the bench next to us. Tom Ford dashed en grande forme to the director’s cabin in order to see and not be seen. The sponsor’s logo, a constructivist roman she-wolf, très mutine.

The clothes were indeed impressive. The inspiration came from the universe of René Gruau, and the sartorial prowess of the couturières and petites-mains behind the scenes emerged from fan motives, plissés, floating silks, elaborated accordeon shoulders and origami collars. Mmmh…I quite like this one, a balancing act between 1940s Katharine Hepburnesque boldness and vague reminiscences of the 80s without bulky excess, with a blessing of shogun aesthetics on top. And I have already the shoes and gloves that go with it!

Emerging markets were taken care of and carefully targeted with the fabulous fan motives, once more inspired by Gruau…look at this fabulous rising sun…

When you think to these couturiers you realize that the Sarli and Valentino of this world are agé gentlemen, and what will be the future of these brands, these archives, this craftmanship going forward?

Similarly to our best monuments and triumph arches, their creations are icons of design of their respective ages. But if you read the press the recurring words are polemics and clash, especially surrounding the organization of the events. Some designers flock to Paris, other to Milano, Rome seems unable to canalize efforts.

Therefore the contrast with Berlin’s “raw energy” (Suzy Menkes, IHT) is even stronger.  Sweatshirt-trimmed sportswear is no “mikado overcoats with fan-shaped sleeves, boucled palettò brushed with yellow feathers”. But the polemics de basse cour sound like an insult to the hands who are behind those plissés and jais body-tattoos.

Berlin seems to take good care of its street-wear designs and budding couture, even when not ripe yet. When fostered and encouraged, talent can blossom. On the other hand, Rome’s blasés institutions are too busy in navel-gazing and leave the juicy craftmanship treasures unnoticed, while pushing balkanization scenarios a step further. Very Visconti, very Gattopardo indeed. Splendeur et décadence vs. bread and butter?

Photos: Repubblica, Alta Roma Alta Moda, Bread and Butter